Known affectionately as the “Molle,” Berliners are increasingly drinking their beer outside of pubs. In a city shaped by over 200 years of working-class culture, the Berlin corner pub as a cultural heritage served as a refuge and living room for those who wanted to enjoy a beer or two (or three) in peace. However, the Berlin corner pub is in danger. On the one hand, it struggles to attract guests, while on the other, skyrocketing rents make it increasingly difficult for pub owners to turn a profit or maintain affordable leases.
Schultheiss Celebrates the ‘Kiezkneipe’ (Neighborhood Pub)
There are efforts to revive Berlin’s corner pubs and make them popular again, especially among younger people and tourists. Leading the charge is the Berlin brewery Schultheiss, which strives to present its pubs and their owners in the best light. Since 2013, their “Neighborhood Pub” campaign “Aktion Kiezkneipe” has been encouraging people to rediscover Berlin’s unique charm and hospitality. The Berlin office of the agency Scholz & Friends spearheads this initiative. Even Berlin legend Frank Zander became a cultural ambassador for the campaign. During the pandemic in 2020, he explained his involvement in Brauwelt. “Supporting pub owners is close to my heart, not least because I personally enjoy sharing a freshly tapped beer with friends in a cozy setting.”On the Schultheiss website, visitors can explore various Berlin pubs and learn about their offerings. Likewise, TIP Berlin magazine provides insights into historic Berlin pubs that have been serving guests for over a century. While not every pub can be confirmed as a quintessential example of Berlin’s corner pub charm, the city’s pride in its unique pub culture is evident. Yet, all these efforts may be in vain: Berlin’s corner pubs are disappearing, not least due to the changing societal attitudes toward alcohol consumption.
Berlin as a Working-Class City in the Early 20th Century
To understand the cultural significance of Berlin’s corner pubs, we must look back to the industrial era of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. At that time, Berlin was Germany’s largest industrial hub, driven by sectors like machinery (e.g., Borsig), electrical industries (e.g., Siemens and AEG), construction, food, and textiles. Even after World War I, the city remained a bustling industrial center. By 1936, Berlin’s manufacturing sector employed 574,000 people—more than the entire workforce of Württemberg, Baden, and Thuringia combined. For these workers, often living in cramped housing, Berlin’s corner pubs played a central role in daily life. These establishments offered a place to unwind, socialize, and escape the pressures of their small homes. Affordable meals and a steady flow of beer created a welcoming environment where class distinctions faded at the bar.
The Berliner Corner Pub as a Cultural Asset is Disappering
After World War II, Berlin underwent dramatic societal changes. Nearly three-quarters of the city’s machinery were destroyed during the war, and the Cold War divided Berlin into two cities, culminating in the construction of the Berlin Wall on August 13, 1961. While neither West nor East Berlin reclaimed its industrial glory, West Berlin became a unique space under Allied control, fostering a vibrant culture of art, counterculture, and alternative lifestyles until reunification in 1990. Corner pubs remained a hub for Berlin’s hip and youthful scene, particularly in districts bordering the Wall, where rents were low, and the society remained diverse and working-class. These pubs united intellectuals, artists, workers, and businesspeople alike, offering a place to socialize or simply be themselves. The reunification of Berlin marked the city’s transition into the capital of a unified Germany, transforming its once-neglected neighborhoods into prime real estate. As Berlin rose to prominence as a global city, the corner pub began its decline.
The Berlin Corner Pub and it’s Uniqueness
Author Clemens Füsers has authored three books on Berlin’s corner pubs and advocates for their recognition as UNESCO cultural heritage. According to Füsers, Berlin’s pub culture—alongside the pubs around Hamburg’s harbor and those in the Ruhr area—is one of a kind. Munich, for example, lacks this culture, as it has historically never been shaped by a working-class ethos. During the industrial era, pubs served as a sanctuary away from the overcrowded tenement housing. In the post-war years, as prosperity grew in West Germany, there was less demand for cheap beer, pickled eggs, or the vitamins of a beer-lemon mix. Füsers explains in an article for Fluter magazine that this shift in lifestyle partially explains the continued decline of Berlin’s pubs. In 2024, their closures still make headlines, such as the mid-year shutdown of the “Stadtklause” neighborhood pub. Regulars and pub culture enthusiasts are disheartened but often powerless to intervene. Even profitable pubs face insurmountable challenges due to exorbitant rents or terminated commercial leases.
Beer to Become a Luxury in the Long Term
Beer consumption and production have been steadily declining worldwide, with countries like the UK, USA, Poland, and Germany leading the trend. According to the German Brewers Association, per capita beer consumption dropped to an average of just 92 liters per year in 2022. Society’s attitudes toward alcohol have shifted, with more people choosing to abstain entirely. The German Nutrition Society recently even revised its statement on alcohol and said that it is generally better to avoid consumption completely. Does this mean beer and pub culture are doomed? Not entirely. However, breweries, beverage retailers, and pubs must adapt to meet new consumer demands. While cheap beer is losing its appeal, beer as a luxury product is gaining popularity. New variants with and without alcohol, which spice up a moment or occasion, are now increasingly in demand. Craft beers, seasonal brews, and limited-edition releases, like the mini kegs for the UEFA Euro 2024 in Germany, are increasingly sought after. Regional breweries are finding success by catering to younger audiences with innovative flavors. Perhaps urban centers will also need to protect traditional pubs to preserve the unique hospitality and working-class spirit they represent. Only then might Berlin’s corner pubs survive as a cultural heritage for future generations.
Photo Credits:
Cover Photo: Manfred Heyde, 10. Juni 2013, Eckkneipe in der Donaustraße im Bezirk Neukölln von Berlin/Deutschland
Artikel Photo: Berliner-Kindl-Schultheiss-Brauerei GmbH
